You Could Learn a lot from Da Cat

What Dora Said ….
“The individuals are being pushed out and the clones are taking over. Masses of armies of them pushing, pushing … so where’s the individual anymore? He’s finished. It’s always somebody else. They’re not even them! They’re somebody else. They’re copying somebody else so they’re not them, they’re that guy in the video or it’s a motion picture or it’s a magazine that they’re pretending to be.
The competitive part of it all is a whole different ball game, a whole different camp from what I’m involved in. I don’t even think about it. I don’t want to think about it because it destroys, for me, the whole purpose of riding waves. I don’t like noises, I don’t like crowds, I don’t like bullhorns going off, people giving orders, how to ride, how to do certain maneuvers … all this is beyond my comprehension of pleasure. Now what motivates these people is … I don’t even want to think about it. It has nothing to do with me. But that’s their life, and that’s their direction, let them go. They’re probably the best in the world and all professional athletes are the same.
I was one of the first 20 or 15 who rode the North Shore. I don’t know. It don’t make any difference to me. Who was the best in the world? Who was the worst in the world? I don’t give a f—k. I don’t give a damn. If you want to think I’m any good, fine. If they don’t think I’m any good, I don’t give a shit. I’m there to ride waves and enjoy myself. It’s all emotional and it’s a release. And that’s all I have, my one life.
My whole life is this escape. My whole life is this wave I drop into. I set the whole thing up, pull off the bottom turn, pull up into it …and shoot for my life, going for broke, man. And behind me, all this shit goes over my back: The screaming parents, the screaming teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers. They’re all going over the falls head first into the fu—kin’ reef, fwaaaaa!! And I’m shooting for my life. And when it starts closeout I pull out the back and I pick off another one and do the same g-damn thing!
For me I can’t live in the Northern Hemisphere. I must live back in the time where all these animals, all this sea life, all the oysters, shellfish, crustaceans …everything is part of the smell, everything has to come into focus of the whole experience. Systems, communism, capitalism … nothing influences me, I just go ahead in my own thinking and that’s the way I do it. Now I don’t expect anyone to live my life … why should they? It’s pretty lonely … a very lonely bizarre existence.”—Miki Dora, from Surfers the Movie

http://www.ghettojuicemag.com/blog:dora