martes, 20 de enero de 2015

SURFING YEARS IN REVIEW By Corky Carroll

Another great article in Orange County Register!

SURFING YEARS IN REVIEW
By Corky Carroll

Normally at this time of the year I list off my resolutions for the coming one, and normally they never come true because they always have to do with losing weight and getting more tuned up. But I stay the same year after year so it’s really hopeless at this point to keep going on about it. Instead I decided to do a year in review story.

But then I realized that this marks the end of my SIXTIETH YEAR surfing and that being at least some sort of little milestone made me decide to do a sixty years in review story instead. Sooooo, with that task in mind here we go on my little adventure through the years. Of course this will be abbreviated due to the fact that to tell the whole story would be a book, and that is a separate project. What I would like to do is highlight important things that happened in the sport, and to me too, along the way.

I rode my fist wave when I was seven on a board that belonged to a dude named Larry Conroy. I had snuck it out of his backyard when he wasn’t home. It was a big solid balsawood plank. This was in the mid 1950’s and the state of the art surfboards were all solid balsawood. In about 1957 Hobie Alter started working with polyurethane foam to make lighter boards. He and Gordon “Grubby” Clark developed a new surfboard blank that cut a lot of weight off the average board and made surfing much more accessible to all ages and to women as well. The wood boards were so heavy that it was hard for anybody except dudes in great shape to lug them around. The new “foamies” opened the door for anybody to surf and had a lot to do with the upcoming surfing boom of the early 1960’s. That, and the movie Gidget combined created the enormous “fad” of surfing that took over the country. Surfing went from “a few water beat nicks along the California coast and in Hawaii to a world wide addiction almost overnight. I grew up in the middle of all this.

In 1959 they held the first big “West Coast Surfing Championship” at Huntington Beach. This would morph into the “United States Surfing Championship” in 1961 and later into the “OP Pro,” “Gotcha Pro,” some other “Pros” and eventually into the current U.S. Open of Surfing. At about the time this event got under way other smaller surf events started taking place up and down the coast. There had been the Makaha International in Hawaii even before this, but it was in the early 1960’s that surfing competition really took off in a big way. Within a few years there were events every weekend at one beach or the next. I won my first at San Clemente in 1962 and then my first big one was the Jr. Men’s at the United States Championship in 1963.

What had only been a small handful of surfboard builders all of a sudden blossomed into a full-fledged surfboard industry. The manufacturing of boards went from the back of the sales shops to big modern surfboard factories almost overnight. I still remember in the early days when you walked into a surf shop you could smell the resin from the boards being made in the back room. And other than the boards themselves about the only other thing you could buy was maybe a t shirt or one of the early surf magazines.

Surfer (magazine) hit the market in 1960 and immediately became the “bible” of surfing. I read and reread every word in that thing at least 100 times. The first issue went along with the release of a surf film titled "Surf Fever." Both were produced by surfing artist and photographer John Severson (John Severson's SURF). A year later SURFER came out as a quarterly magazine then would later go bi monthly and eventually monthly. The influence that this magazine had on the surfing world was massive. The photos glamorized the surf stars of the time and helped to forge the fledgling surfing industry to get on its feet.

In the spring of 1964 Hobie Alter put me on salary to do nothing but surf. I became the first actual full time Professional Surfer!

Stay tuned next week for PART TWO.

*Pictured: Surfer Magazine's July 2009 issue


Beau Young shows his surf board collection

lunes, 19 de enero de 2015

Jetties JUSTIN QUINTAL

Matchbox - Carl Perkins - Live TV performance 1957

2014 LogJam Surf contest longboard highlights

ENTREVISTA JOEL TUDOR DUCT TAPE BIARRITZ

JOEL TUDOR'S LOVE OF LOG

THE JOEL TUDOR VANS DUCT TAPE INVITATIONAL WENT DOWN AT COTE DES BASQUES IN BIARRITZ YESTERDAY. WAVES WERE FUN AND DUDES SHOT THE HOT CURL, DADDY-O.
image: http://cdn1.coresites.mpora.com/surfeurope_new/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/duct-tape-poster-flat.jpg
What’s the big idea Joel Tudor?
It’s just providing an environment for a group of kids. Back a few years ago it was just me riding these kind of boards but now it’s grown beyond that to all regions of the world where there are waves that require that kind of surfing. I’ve always had this dream – Nat (Young) always portrayed this image to me of riding logs in fun events… But back when I was riding for Vans they didn’t have money to throw at events like this. And now they do, it’s great that they’re choosing to support these guys. I mean there’s so many things they could put their money in to. But this is like giving back to the sport, not so much in terms of the contest winner but more in terms of inspiring other kids, starting an entire movement.
image: http://cdn2.coresites.mpora.com/surfeurope_new/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/photo-3.jpg
You’re pretty stoked to see kids everywhere with logs and rocking a little hipster retro vibe?
Yeah it’s the opposite kind of thing from competitive pro surfing which is kind of turning surfing into a jock sport, and these guys are the exact opposite. And fuck, that’s awesome. Nobody wants to be a jock, man (NB Scottish readers, Joel is not a racist, ‘jock’ is American for someone who’s really into team sports), save that shit for football.
For people who maybe don’t follow the longboard shred closely, what’s the principle difference between this event and those ASP longboard comps?
The ASP has just lost its identity, you’ve got a bunch of guys wanking around on tri-fins, and they look like shit. These guys are riding waves in the correct manner for these waves, coz waves are really only supposed to be around shoulder high when you ride a log, and that’s a fact. Anything above that and you’re fighting a curve that doesn’t fit the wave face. So you’re fighting a loosing battle when surf that particular style. An really, through the 90′s all that shit was really big, but it was such a backlash. Because if you were to ask anybody from Kelly to Machado to even Julian Wilson, they’ll all tell you that that style of longboarding is whacked, you know what I mean? It just makes no sense to try and emulate shortboarding when you have a certain style that has its own identity and is beautiful. So that’s what this is, it’s giving the guys a platform to show the difference between the two.
image: http://cdn2.coresites.mpora.com/surfeurope_new/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/photo-4.jpg

Do you love the Biarritz?

Shit, this was the legitimacy of my surfing career. I came here in 91 and won the ASP event that was here, and it was kind of the start of my whole existence in the sport. Biarritz was always like a second home to me as a kid, I spent all my summers here, it was always a dream to bring an event back. And here it is, low key, low impact, with the surfing being the focus rather than the circus on the beach. That’s the idea behind it.
Why duct tape?
Not many of these guys actually have sponsors, these are the kind of people you’d see with duct tape on their boards. Some of em don’t have shit, these guys aren’t picking up 18 boards at a time, some guys will ride the same board for a year. So duct tape comes in handy, you know, when you ding em.
(Footnote: I’m not sure who won, I watched the final but they didn’t announce it. But if it were up to me, I’d give it to Al Knost coz I secretly fancy him)…

Read more at http://surfeuropemag.com/features/interviews/joel-tudors-love-of-log.html#DrH2jf0vKkRmtkx6.99

Longboard VIP

9 foot and sing deus 2014


9 foot and sing deus 2014 from Salty merchant on Vimeo.

Devon Howard, Matt Cuddihy, Lachlan Leckie, Thomas Bexon, Matt Chonoski, Zye Norris, Jack Norton, Eden Saul and more. No fuss shooting by a hot girl on the beach for no particular reason. Shitty, quick edit by the salty merchants after this footage was recovered from a corrupt hard drive. Sorry for those who's heats/waves that were unable to be recovered. Enjoy.

Joel Tudor: Unfiltered

Joel Tudor: Unfiltered

The longboard icon speaks without inhibition about the state of surfing

| posted on January 28, 2013
Photo: Glaser
Joel Tudor has always been a polarizing figure in the surf world. Idolized by traditionalists for his grace, style, and equally fierce convictions, the 35-year-old San Diegan has assumed the role of tribal elder while still remaining the yardstick by which all other longboarders of the modern age are measured. And in a time where his genre’s influence is felt everywhere—from foreign lineups to clips on Dane Reynolds’ website—Tudor is as relevant now as he’s ever been. Here he offers us his perspective.
Talk to me about the current state of longboarding.
It’s awesome. There’s been enough of a jump in the right direction and it’s made the side that we all hated [high-performance longboarding] irrelevant—that side’s finally disappearing. I was fighting a lonely battle for a long time. It’s pretty cool that there’s a whole group now, as opposed to one person. The weight is off my shoulders. The other day I had some kid that takes jiu-jitsu from me in the studio, and I put in Alex Knost’s new movie and the kid was like, “He’s the reason I started surfing.” And I thought to myself, “That’s pretty rad.” And it’s got to that point where there’s an entirely different group that’s capable of doing what needs to be done, which is just inspiring kids who want to ride logs to ride them correctly.
Do you think there’s a place for competitive longboarding?
It’s hard for me to write it off because it gave me legitimacy and enabled me to make a living. I don’t agree with the ASP, but it is what it is. I mean, Al Knost or any one of these guys could enter and win if they wanted to. And it would probably legitimize them. They would only gain more credibility and be able to prolong the scam of making money for surfing your whole life. We’re all trying to follow in the Dora footsteps of scamming, scamming, scamming, because at the end of the day, we are scamming. If you just go surfing and you collect a check, you’re scamming society. It’s true. You do whatever it takes, and if that means winning an ASP world title, then win it, but it’s going to be a hard-fought battle. It took me seven years to convince them that I was good enough to win one. So a lot of people give up after a couple years. Do I think the way the ASP judges longboarding and the style of surfing they’re rewarding is cool? No, not really, but that’s another story. That’s a broken record, i’ve been complaining about that shit forever.
What should the criteria be? What is good longboarding?
Come to one of my contests [the Joel Tudor Duct Tape Invitational series] and check it out. Basically I believe that longboarding should never be held in waves over head-high and if they are, certain specific requirements of equipment can be adapted. But as far as the real beauty of the art is concerned, it’s an under head-high thing. And in that, you basically want to combine the surfing of Nat Young and David Nuuhiwa and put them both together. Maybe throw me in the mix. And you’ve got a pretty good format. I’m not trying to be egotistical, but that’s just my opinion. That’s the direction that it’s going. When you go to my contests and sit back and watch them, it’s awesome—it’s hilarious, it’s funny, and it makes surfing look fun.
That type of surfing seems to be making its way into performance shortboarding too.
For sure, if you look at the amount that Dane Reynolds is influenced by guys like Al Knost and other people—I mean if Dane goes surfing with Al, the next month Dane will come out with a video clip and he’s surfing similar to Al. So it’s just the evolution of how things are going; it’s cool. And, why not? Dude, if Dane Reynolds is looking to longboarding for inspiration, that’s sick.

http://www.surfermag.com/features/joel-tudor-unfiltered/

domingo, 18 de enero de 2015

Deus UNDER 9 FOOT & SINGLE 2014


Deus UNDER 9 FOOT & SINGLE 2014 from MOZAD studio on Vimeo.

This was a year of firsts for the Deus 9 Foot & Single festival. Not only were a flock of female cross-steppers dominating the Canggu river mouth, we also held our first annual Under 9 Foot & Single division. We decided to run the spur of the moment shortboard division because we’d (somehow) found ourselves with a bit of extra time. Needless to say, it was a hoot! And surfers who were at the beach early on the finals day (most with sever hangovers from the night of partying at the Temple) surfed four man heats, with the river mouth to themselves. As to be expected, the format was relaxed and competitors weren’t all that competitive, but the waves were fun and the skill level was high. The Under 9 Foot and Single division will become a staple in our festival for years to come and we can’t wait to see who turns up next year, when it’s not so spontaneous.

You Could Learn a lot from Da Cat

dakca.jpg
What Dora Said ….
“The individuals are being pushed out and the clones are taking over. Masses of armies of them pushing, pushing … so where’s the individual anymore? He’s finished. It’s always somebody else. They’re not even them! They’re somebody else. They’re copying somebody else so they’re not them, they’re that guy in the video or it’s a motion picture or it’s a magazine that they’re pretending to be.
The competitive part of it all is a whole different ball game, a whole different camp from what I’m involved in. I don’t even think about it. I don’t want to think about it because it destroys, for me, the whole purpose of riding waves. I don’t like noises, I don’t like crowds, I don’t like bullhorns going off, people giving orders, how to ride, how to do certain maneuvers … all this is beyond my comprehension of pleasure. Now what motivates these people is … I don’t even want to think about it. It has nothing to do with me. But that’s their life, and that’s their direction, let them go. They’re probably the best in the world and all professional athletes are the same.
I was one of the first 20 or 15 who rode the North Shore. I don’t know. It don’t make any difference to me. Who was the best in the world? Who was the worst in the world? I don’t give a f—k. I don’t give a damn. If you want to think I’m any good, fine. If they don’t think I’m any good, I don’t give a shit. I’m there to ride waves and enjoy myself. It’s all emotional and it’s a release. And that’s all I have, my one life.
My whole life is this escape. My whole life is this wave I drop into. I set the whole thing up, pull off the bottom turn, pull up into it …and shoot for my life, going for broke, man. And behind me, all this shit goes over my back: The screaming parents, the screaming teachers, police, priests, politicians, kneeboarders, windsurfers. They’re all going over the falls head first into the fu—kin’ reef, fwaaaaa!! And I’m shooting for my life. And when it starts closeout I pull out the back and I pick off another one and do the same g-damn thing!
For me I can’t live in the Northern Hemisphere. I must live back in the time where all these animals, all this sea life, all the oysters, shellfish, crustaceans …everything is part of the smell, everything has to come into focus of the whole experience. Systems, communism, capitalism … nothing influences me, I just go ahead in my own thinking and that’s the way I do it. Now I don’t expect anyone to live my life … why should they? It’s pretty lonely … a very lonely bizarre existence.”—Miki Dora, from Surfers the Movie

http://www.ghettojuicemag.com/blog:dora 

Deus 9ft and Single Girls Comp


Deus 9ft and Single Girls Comp from MOZAD studio on Vimeo.

Let the ladies slide! That’s what Kassia Meador said to Dustin Humphrey (the 9’ Foot and Single brainchild) during a time they spent together in Java earlier this year. Kassia had been competing in a few of the invitational longboard contests but was sick of surfing against the dudes. Dustin, knowing that running an event with Kassia was a bit of an honour, granted her the wish and BAM!
The girls had their own division at the 9’ Foot and Single this year and it was the most exciting of the event! A much needed feminine touch to what used to be a mostly male affair. No one could believe how hard they were surfing and how beautiful they were to watch.
This here video is an all-girls, log riding love affair. You can’t help but smile!

Interview with Al Knost: OC Freesurfer of the Year

Knost-square.jpg
While most surfers are concerned with sticker placement and making sure they’ve got the right fin set up, Alex Knost is already out in the water surfing. And he does it his way. Not your way. It’s that type of attitude that has set Al apart from virtually every other surfer in the world. He rides to his own tune and doesn’t give a flying frack what anybody thinks. Several years ago it was almost weird that this native Newporter shunned the typical shortboard set up and went the way of the longboard, but at the end of the day, he’s laughing hardest. Now riding all sorts of surfboards seems all the rage. Longboard, egg, shortboard, kneeboard. Heck, Alex will stand up on just about anything and each, in its own little way, brings the same amount of stoke. Not worried about WQS ratings or the ASP World Longboard Tour, Alex has been freesurfing his way around the world and it’s all led to this….
Interview by Skip Snead
Ghetto Juice: First off, Alex, congrats on being named this year’s OC Freesurfer of the Year!
Alex Knost: Thank you very much. I feel very … free.
Ghetto Juice: What comes to mind when you hear the term “freesurfer”? What’s that mean to you?
Alex Knost: I don’t know, really. I guess it’s a way to describe someone who’s not on a tour competing, I can imagine. Just freedom. Freedom to surf how they want.
Ghetto Juice: Did you ever have dreams of being on the tour when you were little?
Alex Knost: Probably. I always longboarded so it wasn’t really an option, because there wasn’t really a tour. I mean, there was but there weren’t many people who made a living off it. There were guys who did longboard contests … guys were getting like a thousand bucks for winning a contest or something, so it wasn’t really like a feasible profession for anyone. There were like two guys making a living off it, like Joel (Tudor) being one of them, but I don’t think his accomplishments in competition really afforded him a paycheck.
Ghetto Juice: How did you get into longboard as opposed to shortboarding when you were a kid?
Alex Knost: My dad got me into longboarding. My dad and his friends were the first surfers I knew, and they rode longboards and that’s what they surfed. They went to San O, Malibu and Blackies. So for a nine year old kid, you really don’t differentiate from much, you just try and do it. So I just did it. There was kids who surfed (longboards) in high school and stuff, but there weren’t many kids as die hard as I was, or even in Junior High. My dad would go every day before work, and we’d go on the weekends. Most kids that I knew weren’t really, well, I just didn’t know them. The easiest way to go surfing as much as I could was to go with the people who were doing it the most, which was my dad and his friends.
Ghetto Juice: What moments do you remember from your early days on a surfboard?
Alex Knost: I remember the smell of Bubble Gum surf wax. Bubble Gum surf wax stickers on coolers at San O. All my dad’s friends all had Igloos full of beer, and they always like a Bubble Gum surf wax sticker on it, a Da Bull sticker … everyone had these bumper stickers that said “Miki for Prez because Bush don’t surf” … what else do I remember? San O, hanging out there all day, and surfing Blackies before school when it was one foot and south wind every day. Just being obsessed with surfing. I could never get enough of it. I’d wake up my dad at five o’clock in the morning. I’d bang on his door and go, “Let’s go surf!” And he was pretty psyched on it, too, but he worked pretty hard his whole life painting houses, so he was pretty beat every morning, but I thank him for that. I thank him for getting up and getting me out there.
Ghetto Juice: What kind of surfboard did you start out on?
Alex Knost: Let’s see…. I was like 12 and I had an 8-foot Russell, it was really thick, a tri-fin longboard that was made in the early ‘80s. It was like my dad’s friend’s old board or something. I rode that for a while, but I got jealous of all the guys at Blackies, cause they had these bitchin single fin nose riders, guys who were older than me, guys like Steve Farwell and Cody Simkins and those guys, and George Wally, and Bean Dip. They all had these like big Joel Tudor style longboards, Model T Takiyama type noses, and big noses, like David Nuuhiwa models, and I always wanted one but I could never get one, because everyone I talked to, like Robert August and Mike Marshall, they wanted me to learn to noseride the right way, and thought that a “giant” nose was cheating ‘cause you wouldn’t have to noseride in the pocket, so I sat there and felt like a kook ‘cause I always wanted one of those big noses that I could hang ten on, and my dad and Mike Marshall and Robert August would only make me these tiny noses, I guess to get me to walk before I could run, or something like that. I never felt cool. All the older guys had big tip noseriders (laughs) and I didn’t.
Ghetto Juice: Interesting. During that time was there any pressure from your peers your own age to ride a shortboard?
Alex Knost: I don’t know, the two were separated. I mean, I rode shortboards in high school on the surf team (Newport Harbor) but it was just different for me. I think even in middle school, seventh and eighth grade I had a couple friends who shortboarded, so I’d surf before school and on the weekends with my dad, and if I wanted to surf after school I’d get a ride with my friend’s parents and when I’d bring a longboard in their car they’d look at me like a dipshit, you know, a mom trying to fit a longboard in her minivan or Honda Accord. She’d say something like, “Why does your friend Alex bring this big board?” So sometimes out of necessity I’d ride shortboards, and it was cool, too. I mean, I got made fun of a little bit but I didn’t care. I knew this whole world of people who rode longboards, and who hung at San O, and that was what I was addicted to anyway. You could just hang out there all day anyway. Where in Newport it was a touch and go sort of thing. You surf in the morning and then it’s blackballed. Where I’d go to San O with my dad, or with friends who were older that drove, we could get down there at six in the morning and leave at seven at night. It was an all-day thing.
Ghetto Juice: Was it there at San O that you really improved fastest in your surfing?
Alex Knost: I’d say Blackies. I’d do all the club contests with my dad, but that was more family oriented. We’d go up to Santa Cruz or down to La Jolla, but Cody Simkin was the best surfer I ever knew, probably one of the best surfers I’d ever seen, and I remember he’d take me to the beach, he was older than me, and we’d surf all day. And as soon as I got a car when I was 16 it was pretty much game on. I had a couple friends, like Nolan Hall and a couple other people and we’d either go down to San O or Cardiff for weeks at a time. We’d go to San O and surf all day, then go to the skatepark in San Clemente after, right when they opened that up, and then we’d go to Wal-Mart and we’d steal socks ‘cause our socks smelled so bad, so we’d steal socks, and sometimes jeans, but mostly socks. And then we’d go back to the beach and we’d surf and then we’d talk our friend Jeremy into buying us beer and we’d drink and sleep in the car. We did that from the time I was 16, every summer, all summer, until …. Now. You know, I sleep in a van now, not a station wagon, and I don’t have to steal socks anymore. (laughs)
Ghetto Juice: Yeah, you probably don’t need to steal socks anymore…
Alex Knost: (Laughs) No. Don’t have to steal socks.
Ghetto Juice: How old were you when you got your first legitimate sponsor?
Alex Knost: Ummm, well my dad was friends with Mark Martinson and Robert August and they were shapers, and they were awesome, and they kind of held a carrot in front of my face. Like if I got good grades they’d make me a new board. I think Robert gave me my first board, it was a “Wingnut” model, right after Endless Summer 2 came out, had the two red stripes. That was my first custom board. It was an 8’4” … it wasn’t even technically a longboard, but I remember I ordered that and I was all excited he was making me a custom board. And I went to leave and I was like, “Thank you so much, Robert, I can’t wait!” And I came back a few weeks later and he was like, “Yeah, your board’s almost done, the one with the pink bunny rabbits on it!” And I was like, “What? Pink bunny rabbits??” And he said, “Yeah, remember? You wanted the pink bunny rabbits, that’s what we got, it’s airbrushed all killer…” I was like, “F—k, man! I’m gonna be the biggest kook, everyone’s gonna make fun of me!” But he was just f—-kin’ with me, that was just Robert’s vibe. So I got that board from him. Around the same time, Surfside Sports when it was down by Blackies, that was kind of the cool thing, all the older guys rode for Surfside, like Josh Hoyer and Maikai McKenna and Steve Farwell and Bean Dip … and I got a bunch of free stickers, a couple t-shirts from Surfside Sports and that was like the coolest thing for me. And then later, I remember the Frog House guys, like TK and stuff, and I’d be like, “Am I a kook riding for Surfside? Should I be a Frog House guy? I wanna be a Frog House guy!” (laughs) It was the funniest shit.
Ghetto Juice: So did you end up riding for Frog House?
Alex Knost: No, I didn’t, and TK just makes fun of me every time I see him. Still, to this day. TK rules. Yeah.
Ghetto Juice: Were you a big fan of Endless Summer and all the old surf movies from the 60s?
Alex Knost: Yeah, even though I was born in ’85, from 1990 until like 1997 my dad would drag me to all these parties, and all the guys would watch movies and get all drunk, and all the surf guys who had kids, we’d all get locked in a room, you know, “Hey you guys just hang out in there…” and they’d watch all the old movies and drink beer, all the videos from their era, from the movies of the late 50s through the early 70s, the Australian transition era, and the Greenough films, all that stuff. So we were just brainwashed, sitting there all weekend at these parties. All the parents would be out doing what they were doing and we’d be in this room watching surf movies getting stoked.
Ghetto Juice: That’s rad that you developed such an appreciation for that side of surf culture during a time when surf movies based on hot shortboarding were really all the rage….
Alex Knost: Yeah, when you’re a kid you’re a sponge. You don’t think about it. You just sat in front of the TV. By the time I got to high school people were watching Kelly Slater in Black and White and that was a whole new thing to me. That was out of my peripheral.
Ghetto Juice: But you still ripped on a shortboard, so that’s kind of cool, too.
Alex Knost: (Laughs) I don’t know if I ever ripped on a shortboard, but I liked it. I had a lot of respect for any type of surfing, from a PT type guy to someone like Derek Hynd on the finless boards, or big wave guys. That’s probably the craziest thing to watch, some of the crazy guys surfing Hawaii the past five years or so. That’s pretty cool. I think that’s pretty awesome.
Ghetto Juice: Where did you end up going on your first surf trip?
Alex Knost: Costa Rica with Robert August. Yeah he told me if I got A’s and B’s in school he’d take me to Costa Rica, so I just cheated…. For two years, just cheating off every girl I could find so I could get to Costa Rica (laughs).
Ghetto Juice: Did you like school?
Alex Knost: (Pauses) Um, well …. No. I didn’t like it at all. But it was laid out for me from an early age. From my dad. “All right, Alex, if you do this, sack up, be a man and do something you don’t like, and keep your head out of your ass, you’ll get to do all the shit you like. But if you blow it, you’re not gonna surf.” It was more the carrot over my head.
Ghetto Juice: Did you see yourself being able to make a living from surfing or were you thinking you might have to get a real job one day like your dad and his friends?
Alex Knost: Yeah. I think, yeah, for sure. All my dad’s friends were construction workers and house painters and stuff, and they were all surfers. You know, getting sponsored I never made any money, and I won some contests, and when you’re a little kid you win a little bit of money you think you’re the richest guy in the world, but I don’t know. I worked at the Robert August factory, before the computer, and I would take the hard foam off the blanks, put the rocker in it and I thought it was cool, you know, working in a surfboard factory, and then Jeff Yoki, from Modern Amusement, gave me a job just scribbling art to put on his t-shirts, when I was like 17, I was still in high school, and so that kind of felt like being a pro surfer. And then I went on a surf trip with Dan Malloy for Thomas Campbell’s movie, and Dan Malloy knew that Conan Hayes and Pat Tenore were starting RVCA. I was about 17 or 18, I was just getting ready to move out of my parent’s house, and the phone rang at like three in the morning. I think Pat thought I lived without my parents, and said he’s got this brand RVCA and asked me if I wanted to ride for a clothing company. My mom had to come in my room and hand me the house phone, she said “There’s some guy named Pat on the phone who said he needs to talk to you.” I still laugh about that, because Pat talks like a million miles a minute and he probably didn’t realize I lived at home and that he’d called me at like three in the morning.
Ghetto Juice: You've been riding for RVCA for a long time!
Alex Knost: Yeah, well, Matt and Ford Archbold were already riding for them, and in all their ads, but yeah, it was right when it started and I think it had just moved the company out of their garage … So then I got a job. I got the free ticket (laughs). The meal ticket.
Ghetto Juice: And you combined that with the music. How did you get into that?
Alex Knost: I was always kind of into music. My dad got me into Neil Young when I was pretty little, and The Cars and Fleetwood Mac and all that shit, you know, driving down to San O on blank cassettes. And then I started skateboarding next, and going to skateparks and hanging out with all those punker dudes, like Mike Lohrman from The Stitches and Gish from the Smut Peddlers, and Ricky Barnes, and Grosso and all those guys, they were all skaters. So I was kind of born into this hippy Neil Young thing and then went to the skatepark and there were these tattooed gnarly looking guys, Duane Peters and shit, and I was like, f—k, these guys are really cool, I like the punk rock thing: skateparks, punk rock, tattoos and chicks. So that got me into music even more, you know? And Nolan Hall and I, we were longboarders, surfer friends, and we started our first band Japanese Motors and we just played in my friend’s living rooms, all teenagers, and Chase Stopnik, the bass player, he crashed there. He was like a skate punk kid, he just smelled so bad, never took showers (laughs) … Yeah I dragged my parents through some commitments in those days.
Ghetto Juice: What do you like better? Performing on a stage or on a surfboard?
Alex Knost: Ummm, I don’t know. Surfing you’re not really thinking about an audience, which is kind of cool. You don’t even have time to think about an audience, just a head down type of thing. Sometimes music, the response is so immediate, you know, it’s easy to feel rejected if everyone’s not going apeshit, looking at you like you’re the best song writer in the world, you get self-conscious, but I really like recording music. Yeah, I think I was a little more self-conscious playing live when I was younger but now (in Tomorrow’s Tulips) it’s more like who the f—k cares, just do it and have fun.
Ghetto Juice: Yeah, and you’ve got Ford in there, too….
Alex Knost: Yeah, it helps to be in a band with Ford because he’s so detached from any sort of like … I don’t know, Ford’s an Archbold. He just don’t give a f—k. He just enjoys life, doesn’t care what anyone thinks. He’s a good person to be around to help you remember that everyone’s gonna die eventually, it doesn’t matter, just enjoy yourself and feel good and make other people feel good. That’s cool.
Ghetto Juice: How would you describe the last ten years of your life?
Alex Knost: Lucky. Amazing. Far out. Exceptional. Yeah, grateful. I’m super grateful to have met so many cool, unique people through surfing and so many inspiring originals. All the people who did all this amazing stuff, and all these incredible things without any expectations of recognition. I think that’s the coolest thing, meeting real awesome surfers and board builders and artists, all these people who did it for fulfillment. One thing I’ve noticed with all the internet and online stuff and self-promotion, I feel like people do get caught up in it and they only do things just to put on their Instagram, just to show people how cool they look and how cool they are to flip off their sponsors. I don’t know, I’ve just met so many real awesome people that were so ahead of their time and just did it because they loved surfing, or they just loved whatever they’re into. I’ve always thought that was so cool.
Ghetto Juice: What advice do you have for the kids out there who might be reading this, in terms of living their life?
Alex Knost: Be grateful and stay modest. Everyone’s the same.
Ghetto Juice: And how do you see the next ten years playing out for you?
Alex Knost: I don’t know, I’ll just take it a day at a time.


http://www.ghettojuicemag.com/blog:alknost

viernes, 16 de enero de 2015

STAB MAGACINE - JARED MELL

The Terrific Jared Mell!

Jared Mell’s story reads somewhere between an episode of the OC and Easyrider (think booze, weed, good times and some very bad ones), and gets extra points from the fact he funds his adventures from his gig painting houses for Al Knost’s dad back in Newport. You want some of his juice? Stab thinks you’ll like the taste. 
Interview by Jed Smith
Stab found Jared in Biarritz for an experimental longboarding event (think art installations, six surfers to a room, booze, weed, sex etc) and over the course of an hour told us about a troubled adolescence in which he was arrested for beating up his mum; the patriarch of the family he never had, best bro Alex Knost; a sexual philosophy not dissimilar from Dominique Strauss Kahn’s; surf culture; and financing his dream one undercoat at a time.
Stab: Why do you surf?JM: I wasn’t into surfing until I was 14 because I wanted to go in surf class at school. I was, like, fuck school, I’d rather hangout and surf at the beach. I was really into sports when I was younger. My mum wasn’t into surfing and my dad was a musician.
How did growing up around them affect you? My dad left my mum when I was two so I’d go visit him for a couple of months a year. When I did see him it made me happy that they could be happy playing a piece of wood with six strings on it. It’s so simple yet so complicated. You don’t even know all the different notes and ways to play. You have to sit there and play and figure it out and you can make so many people happy from it. So rad. No wonder guys can do it forever.
Wasn’t that long ago that this kinda queenie board-dancing would’ve had y’pals at Stab retching into our cups o joe. Now we swoon. Photo by Duncan Macfarlane.
Cheesy question, but do you see a parallel between that and what you do? Kinda, yeah. Longboarding seems so simple but there are so many different things you can do with it and so many different waves and ways you can ride. Some people who don’t know so much about it are, like, “He’s just riding a longboard and running up to the nose on a two-foot wave. That’s all he can do.” I dunno, I’ve seen different types of longboarding all across the world and you’ve gotta be open to it.
You had a wild adolescence. Tell us about the time you got arrested for supposedly beating up your mum. Yeah, my mum kicked me out when I was 17. Me and her are really strong-headed people. She used to be an alcoholic and I drink quite a bit myself. This one night one of my ex’s came over and we were on our way down to the beach with a few beers. So we’re walking out and my mum is up and she loves her music right, and would listen to the same song over and over and sing it til three am. She was in the computer room doing that and she comes out and she’s drunk and mad about something. She’s, like, “What are you doing? You’re not going nowhere!” We had a big argument. I wasn’t having it. She pushed me and she’s, like, “You’re under this house, you do what I say.” I’m, like, fuck that. I’m gonna do what I want. I had these three longboards and a single fin that I’d borrowed from Alex (Knost) leaning against the wall and she put them on the floor and stomped on them, broke the glass-ons out of my longboards and pushed the fin box on Alex’s shortboard out the top of the glass. I’m, like, “Are you fucking kidding me?” I didn’t know what to do. I was shaking. So I stomped over my longboards because they were already broken and walked by her, opened her Armoire (writing desk) and it had a flat-screen her and her husband, who I didn’t like either, had bought and I just… dropkicked the flat screen. I turned around and their jaws literally hit the floor. And, I was, like, that’s what you get. You break my surfboard, I’ll fuck your shit up. Her husband came after me and we started fighting and she tried to break it up and got pushed over and cut her eyebrow. Someone called the cops and they came storming in and pulled me off my step dad and put me in cuffs because they thought I was beating up my mum. They arrest me. I’m sitting there and I’m, like, how fucked up is this? I got drunk, passed out early and get woken up and I’m thinking I’m gonna get lucky on the beach, now she’s hurt and I’m in handcuffs. But my mum doesn’t wanna see me go to jail and I wasn’t beating up on her. She told the cops and they let me go. The guy she was married too was a fucking idiot. So, she has to get stitches and I’m sitting there and can’t believe it happened. Her and her husband come walking up and she says, “I never wanna fucken see you again. Fucking get out of here!” I was, like, really? My mum is gonna say that too me after raising me and making me a man. I just took that as her telling me to get out. I had an old 1962 Dodge Dart at the time and loaded up my boards and some shit and drove to my friend’s house, drunk a big bottle of alcohol and hung out with some chick. The next day, Alex saw me and he’d heard about it. He told me to come live with him. He’d just broken up with a girl that he was in love with and had a place to move in together. He’s a total legend.
Photo: Peter Taras
How would you describe your relationship with Al? He’s like a full brother to me. We met on surf team (in school) and I didn’t know who he was at all. I was just having a blast getting to meet other people and surf every morning. I had hair to my shoulders, dirty blond, and I was always stoked and probably stoned so I seemed really happy. He’s just the nicest guy and has been so cool and helpful. He doesn’t wanna see any of his friends in a bad situation. If he can help he’ll go out of this way. If I needed money (him and his friends) would help me out because my only income was from working at Jack’s, the surf shop. It was Alex who got me on Insight, I think. He got offered a sponsorship to leave RVCA and he can’t because they did everything for him. But he’s, like, I know a kid, and he described me to them and Jesse Faen was the CEO at the time and we surfed and hung out and he’s, like, yeah, “You’re on the team. You’re going got Bali for the campaign.” Right out of school and I’m in Bali. I dreamed of that growing up seeing Gerry (Lopez) and Rory Russell surfing Ulus with no one around. He’s looked after me from day one. And then me working with his dad, they’re like another close family that I didn’t really have.
“You break my surfboard, I’ll fuck your shit up. So her husband came after me and we started fighting and she tried to break it up and got pushed over and cut her eyebrow. Someone called the cops and they came storming in and pulled me off my step dad and put me in cuffs because they thought I was beating up my mum. They arrest me. I’m sitting there and I’m, like, how fucked up is this?”
Describe a week in the life of Jared Mell and Al Knost. Al has this rad house in Costa Mesa and he loves having people over and taking photos and having fun. We have friends who don’t even surf who are just musicians and will come over and play in his backyard. And, we’ll have barbecues and just hang out all weekend long. Whatever, you know. It’s really cool and fun and keeps it fresh and interesting and keeps it alive, not boring.
Al was telling me you haven’t had a girlfriend for the last six years. How is that working for you? (Laughter) Yeah, I haven’t. I’ve been hanging out with girls and stuff. I love women. They’re beautiful and awesome but, yeah, getting stuck in a relationship… I haven’t found the right one. I’ve tried and found out, you know, wow, this person might not be for me. And, then, the one-night flings where you’re like “Hey what’s up? Your cute, I’m cute, lets hang out.”
With your lifestyle, is unsolicited, no-strings-attached sex a pre-requisite? No, not really. I’ve hung out with a chick for a couple of weeks at a time (laughter). When I was at home I almost had a couple of girlfriend but something always happens. They go on a trip or I go on a trip. It’s kinda hard. I live in Newport beach, dude, c’mon. There’s blonde chicks with fake titties filled with air in their head walking around like dumb asses thinking I want to go to the mall and spend all of daddy’s money or boyfriend’s money. That to me is so fake. There is nothing cool about it. It’s hard to find cool girls in that area. The no-strings sex comes with it and it is what is but you know it’s still fun. I’m having fun. I’m not saying I sleep around all the time but I’m not saying I don’t (laughter). It’s just about having fun and enjoying yourself as long as you’re respectful to other people and not trying to fuck this person and be like “She was such a slut.”
“I live in Newport beach, dude, c’mon. There’s blonde chicks with fake titties filled with air in their head walking around like dumb asses thinking I want to go to the mall and spend all of daddy’s money or boyfriend’s money. That to me is so fake. There is nothing cool about it.”
From what from what Al and your fellow Insight team rider, Warren Smith told me, you have a sexual philosophy not dissimilar from Dominique Strauss Kahn. From who?
Ah, don’t worry. No, tell me.
Okay, tell me about the time you made love with (can’t say who) the night her and Alex broke up, at the same time you were Al’s flatmate, and while he was in the house. (Laughter) No, he wasn’t in the house. Did he tell you that? (Laughter) What did Alex say? No, he wasn’t. Oh my god! That sucks because I don’t wanna name a girl. You couldn’t ask for a better friend. She’s so rad and so cool and I hate talking about girls like that. Alex and her hung out for a bit and were going on dates and shit and he got over her and one night, she comes over and he doesn’t wanna hang out with her. He wanted me to make up something for him so he could hang out with another girl. He doesn’t like being confrontational with girls when it comes to breaking up with them. He went out with some friends maybe to a show or they were playing because that was when he was in the Japanese Motors.  She came over and we both smoke weed so I was like, “Wanna smoke a spliff?” We rolled a big spliff and we’re talking about stuff and hanging out. She’d brought over this aphrodisiac bottle of alcohol from some island because she’s a model or something and goes to all these far-out places. And, we started drinking it. Couple more spliffs go by and then we’re kissing on the couch and she’s, like, “I don’t think we can do this in case Alex comes by.” So, we just hopped in her rental car and just, ah, spent the night in that somewhere.
How did Al take it? I didn’t tell him for a bit but he said he didn’t care. But, I guess it might have bothered him.
Despite the indiscretion, he maintains you’re one of the top 10 longboarders in the world right now. What do you think of that? I dunno about that. That’s cool that he says that. I think he’s one of those guys.
Photo: Peter Taras
As one of Al’s top 10 longboarders in the world, is it frustrating that you still find yourself painting houses for his dad? (laughter) Yeah, it sucks, but if I can’t make enough money off surfing then I have to do something to survive and that’s what I’ve gotta do. It sucks when I’m painting a wall and Joel and Al come back from surfing and they’re like, “Whoo! We’ve been surfing all day.” It would definitely be cool to not have to paint walls and cruise around with those guys hanging out and surfing all day. It keeps me humble. I get a feeling of having a nine-to-five job then I get to go on a surf trip and live that style and shoot photos and do what I want, play music, surf with these people.
And how are things with your mum these days? We didn’t talk for two years. She’d try to get a hold of me but I was off it. I knew she was drinking. It sucked at the time because it was my mum and my only family in SoCal. All her family lives in Guatemala. My dad’s side is up north. We’re back talking again. We have our tiffs but she’s stopped drinking.
You live a very loose lifestyle. What ties your existence together, like, what gives your life meaning? I see guys who keep surfing forever and how they keep stoked on it and the different things they’ve done through it. I got to do the two clothing lines with Insight and I’ve always been really into clothes. I like designing. That kind of just opened up things and I can always go back to school and study photography at college. That’s something I’ve always been into. So, there are so many different things you can get into. Surfing has so many different opportunities when you’re around people.
Is life about trying as many things as you can? There’s endless opportunities. Whatever attracts my eye. There has to be something cool about it. Feeling. Truth. Something that is not fake, that has history behind it – a good vibe in whatever scene it may be. Good people. Good times for me. Like out here in France, there’s a sick crew of longboarders out here. They’re all the funniest kids ever and really good artists too. They have art shows and the kids will be playing music at the shows and its really similar to our scene at home. And that’s what I love about surfing. It brings together all these people that you wouldn’t usually meet. It brings us together like a family, like the family I never had.

http://stabmag.com/the-terrific-jared-mell/